And we're back from the shop!
The new heads look really good!
.208 intake valve, .175 exhaust. Should flow a ton of air!
Everything all laid out on the cart:
Going with a cam from Comp Cams, specifically this one
crank is back in
Pistons are +.030 Silvolite Hyper Hypereutectic
Timing chain, cover, water pump, and heads!
Unfortunately i goofed on the headbolts, so this is where it will sit until my new ARP headbolt set shows up Monday.
lots and lots of parts
This is basically every sensor for the motor plus tune up parts, gaskets, etc. It also includes a wideband O2 + controller!
This is Innovate Automotive's LC-2 wideband O2 controller. Fully tunable controller, but does not come with a gauge, which is fine since im getting one to match the other gauges i already have from NVU.
I mocked up the exhaust in the bronco, and found a good place to install a bung for the wideband sensor, just behind the stock sensor:
I removed my 2-gauge pod from my pillar, and am installing a 3-gauge pod from GlowShift. Its actually a pretty nice piece and fits very well.
This is the harness i built for the oil pressure & trans temp gauges; its built around a 6 pin connector, and i was only using 5. This works out super conveniently, because i only need to add 1 wire to this harness for the air-fuel ratio gauge- the signal wire from the wideband controller. The rest of the wires for the gauge are all already there. So wiring the gauge will be a pretty simple task.
Here's the new Bosch wideband O2 sensor:
Here's the wideband controller:
Just a couple wires to connect to make it work, plus the large plug goes to the O2 sensor, the other 2 plugs are optional. One of the small plugs is an input for connecting a laptop for tuning the controller, and the other one is an output if youre using other software/hardware from Innovate.
Here's the included harness that connects the sensor to the controller. its available in several lengths; i got the 8' one because i dont know how im going to route the wire yet.
And it also included this adapter harness for connecting a laptop for datalogging or tuning the controller:
Its unlikely ill need this, but it would be useful for those who like to do more specialized tuning for racing, or want to use the controller to emulate a narrowband sensor.
Ive already started wiring the controller up in the truck, but i havent routed the cable for the sensor yet. Its difficult to say exactly where i want it to go, w/o an engine or transmission in the truck to check for clearances. Hopefully the engine will come back soon, and i can get this thing back together and running!
I have a torque converter on order from Broader Performance, hopefully it comes soon.
I also decided its worth it to just order a tuner, so friday i ordered the PimpX ECU from Stinger Performance.
The engine isnt back from the builder yet, but that doesnt mean i dont have things i could be doing. So lets do the things!
First up, lets clean that intake:
Primed & painted. Also in the background, is the non a/c idler pulley bracket, and the p.steering bracketry
Intake primed/painted with VHT's "Iron" Engine Enamel:
Accessory drive bracketry cleaned up and clear coated, looks like new!
Plenum is done as well:
Water pump + crank pulley/damper cleaned up and painted as well:
Stock cast aluminum valve covers blasted and painted with a textured black paint that i found in the back of my cabinet:
...and the oil cooler is now fully rebuilt as well too!
ok this is minor, but has always bugged me. Since the 460 was in a high GVWR truck, it got a different emissions system than the bronco did. That includes these small ports for the air pump, which have been capped off forever since i dont use that system.
I dont like looking under the hood and seeing capped off emissions ports, even if theyre unused, so theyve got to go!
This isnt a super thrilling update. But basically, i cut them off, and then welded the holes shut so no one will ever know they were there in the first place.
So now while im waiting on the motor, ive been putting together a a shopping list of what i think might be everything left i need to putn the motor back in, that hasnt already been ordered. Time to spend some money on RockAuto!
Ok this actually wasnt all that bad to do.
So, i ordered a Transgo shift kit, and a lubelocker pan gasket:
This shift kit is hilarious. Its like 5 springs and a piston!
I guess if it aint broke, dont fix it right? So theres not a whole lot of work to do here, but it requires removal of the valvebody to do it. This is entirely possible to do with the trans installed, but since ive already got it out, i opted to do it with it upside down on the cart.
Ok, i finished refreshing the NP203/205 doubler.
NP203 range box removed:
Seeing as this kit is from 2005, the intermediate shaft is a stock shaft cut down & resplined, as opposed to a new 4340 shaft that most kits use now. Fortunately, the shaft still looks good:
Ok, lets get this thing cleaned up!
..and done! All cleaned up, new output shaft seals, new shift rail seals, and a fresh coat of paint!
Next up is the transmission...
Talked to the builder today. Heads are in and he's already started cutting for valves. Currently looking at decking the block .010 to bump compression a bit, but we'll figure that out once the heads are done. Hes going to order the timing set/cam/lifters/etc tomorrow. I ordered a new Kaase oil pump + hardened shaft from ARP today. Also ordered a wideband O2 + controller & an adjustable FPR as well so i can tune it once its running. Researching online it seems its hit or miss if its possible to tune it on the stock injectors so ill have to get it running, mess with the fuel pressure, and then (probably) have to go back and get bigger injectors. But thats a ways off yet.
Disassembled & started cleaning the NP203/205 doubler; hoping to start putting that back together tomorrow. Fed Ex doesnt seem to want to deliver my shift kit (no updates since saturday) so doubtful ill be doing anything to the trans this week.
Ok, so referencing this pic i took a couple weeks ago:
I decided to just go for it, and notch it. Here's hoping i made it the right shape!
Frame all cleaned up:
Not real easy to see, but ive drawn several different lines on the frame, to try to figure out how i want to do this
The point of no return!
Here's the piece i removed for reference:
The rough mockup in cardboard:
And here's what i ended up with, original shape was pretty close:
...and the end result!
There is a ton of room. This has got to be good enough, altho im not gonna lie, im a bit nervous about this one. Mainly because i wont be able to verify its good until the motor goes in. Here's hoping!
Talked to the builder this morning. Block is going to need .015, so we're gonna go right to .030. Crank will need .010.
He's on board with that cam i posted yesterday. Still researching pistons, but it sounds like he's found a set thatll get us ~9.6:1 compression, which should be pretty sweet.
Unfortunately, both F4 heads are cracked! One of my E7 heads is cracked at an exhaust flange, so its looking like new heads are going to happen.
Well, the block, crank, rods, pistons & heads are officially at the machine shop!
He's figuring atleast .010, so most likely will get a .030 overbore. No idea on deck height at this point, but we might take some off to bump compression a bit.
Thinking about running this cam:
And im thinking about this throttle body as well:
Were gonna try and build something torquey, that will still run on the stock EEC. Im expecting to have to adjust fuel pressure a bit but hopefully not much else. We'll see how it goes!
Plan for the rest of the week is to clean up my mess in the garage. Then bust open the 203/205 doubler, give it a good cleaning, change all the seals and get it ready for re-installation. Then im gonna set the C6 up on the bench and slap a shift-kit in it while im waiting for the motor to come back. I also want to change the converter while its apart since its probably original from 1988. So lots going on right now, even if there arent any posts showing it!
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