Somewhere under this mess is a t-stat
intake is now off:
reference pic for myself. Front of motor at bottom:
This one doesnt come across well in the pic, but the pushrods are pretty rusty
Exhaust manifolds are now off. This went well; there was already one broken bolt in each head, but the rest came right out
This is concerning though; on the right head, the forward bolt hole for each port is cracked
#2 plug broke off the second i touched it
....so did the #3. And the #6. And the #7...
Rolled over. The oil pickup is pretty gross
The cam is showing its age:
...so i decided to pop the #2 main cap.
The bearings are pretty worn, and you can see some scoring
...which corresponds to scoring in the crank journal
The flexplate is cracked all the way around too
The bores dont look too bad, but i cant truly examine them with the pistons in. The crank needs to be cleaned up and new bearings. Probably just change cam at that point. New lifters, pushrods & rockers. New flexplate. The cracks in the passenger head are concerning though, not sure about those. That kind of seals the deal for me, now thinking i would be better off just using this as a core for a reman. Not sure what im going to do now, but either way this isnt going to be a quick fix.
I wish i could say ive been enjoying driving this thing, but sadly i havent.
Not for lack of trying of course, its just that as soon as i got the front-end alignment dialed in, i started hearing it. What started as a mild tap rapidly turned into a pretty loud knock. By the time i burned thru the first tank of gas, it was pretty apparent that my knock wasnt going away. It seems rod knocks never do. So now i have to put a motor in.
Back in early March i picked this up
Its another 460, this one out of a 95, with 120k on the odometer. Fired right up, idled smooth, no smoke or anything. So it seems to be a good candidate to swap in place of my tired noisy motor.
Got it unloaded, and up on the stand, ready to inspect
You can tell it came out of a plow truck. Started soaking the plugs & manifold bolts in prep for removal next week
Popped the right valve cover, and found a disheartening surprise:
Doesnt look so good in there. Guessing this thing sat for a while before i got my hands on it. Decided to dig in deeper.
I like this style of oil cooler as opposed to the older oil-to-air cooler, but ill have to inspect it, and see if theres rebuild kits for them
She's looking a little rough on the outside:
The water pump, while looking awful, appears to be an OEM piece. In fact, everything appears OEM, including all the parts that have obviously been replaced. Im pretty sure this truck was being maintained by a dealer, right up until the frame rotted and broke
The oil does not look good. I suspect coolant contamination but cant confirm.
Timing cover coming off
Chain is at the service limit and should be replaced. But the condition of it is disappointing, as is the condition of the coolant passages:
Cant see much from underneath. Next weeks plan is to pull the intake & heads, roll it over, and inspect the bottom end. Hopefully i find things in better shape down there, because im thinking this motor might need a rebuild as well. Oh well, at least it was cheap.
Its done, i went for a cruise about a half hour ago. It shimmies at 75!
It is night & day better than it was before. The slop in the old box was damn near the whole problem. Its a little twitchy, might be toed in a smidge? Its god damned cold outside, theyre (big) old bias plys, and its got a locker in the rear. Its not gonna be perfect!
I still want to triple check the toe-in tho and see if i can get dialed in a little better.
So just cruising down the road, i cant tell a difference in the power of the box with the way Redhead has it ported, as opposed to the way PSC did it. I always thought porting the control valve was the 'correct' way to do it, but RedHead knows a lot more about this stuff than i do! The real test will be the next time i get a chance to play on some rocks with the tires aired down.
Got my old PSC ported box out:
New redhead box, unfortunately ports are in a different place:
The box is in. It was sleeting! So i didnt get a good pic. Im working on new hydraulic hoses now, hopefully have both done & installed tomorrow so i can bleed it and resume the front end alignment.
Passed inspection last week!
Also, i finally figured out how to properly adjust the Eldorado calipers. Turns out theres a really easy way to adjust them that i guess most people dont know? I certainly didnt. Check this video out:
Ok, so now that youve watched that, you should know: I just followed that and adjusted both of my calipers, in about 30 minutes. With the tires still on, on the ground.
Plenty of room to swing a wrench:
Push the lever down until its starting to apply the parking brake, and this is the gap i have them adjusted to:
100% done with tires still touching the ground.
Now, here's the important part: When setting the parking brake, make damn sure your other foot is on the brake pedal!!!!! I cant stress this enough. The caliper ratchets. Thats how it locks the brake, and thats how it self adjusts. But! It only moves a very small amount at a time. You have to have the caliper already clamped on the rotor when you set the parking brake. If you dont, it wont be tight enough, and it wont hold.
So, if i set it w/o my foot on the brake, itll power thru at idle. If i pump the pedal up a few times and then set the parking brake while im still holding the brake pedal, it holds great.
I read all sorts of articles on adjusting these, and never once saw anyone mention holding the brake when setting parking brake, but it makes a huge difference.
So now im still tinkering with the front end alignment.
Im not happy with it. Flat spotted bias plys (in the winter no less) arent helping. I do have some slop in the steering box which also isnt helping, so this happened:
Redhead #3! This one ported for hydro assist, to replace my 14 year old ported box from PSC.
Hopefully the weather holds, and i can start the swap tomorrow.
...with ~3PSI in the tires, the bronco drove out of the garage on its own!
Its covered in a couple years of dust, so i washed it, and then....tires!
I did get my depth markings back on the door, but with it so overcast the pics didnt come out the best. Ill get some better pics one we have a nice sunny day!
I took it for a quick spin around the block, and it definitely needs a front end alignment! So thatll have to be monday's project, because i cant wait to cruise this thing around again!
Ok not sure how this happened. But both the door, and the dash harness, have the same sex plug for the speaker
Ok thats better:
So that was the last piece of the puzzle, so the door is now together!
Next on the list was the horn. Turns out every horn i have is bad! So i bought new ones off Rock Auto:
This is a pretty terrible picture. The horns are tucked up underneath the driver headlight, like they would be from the factory
After that i moved on to the wipers. Figured i should test them before i put arms on. Good idea! The motor was bad. So i had to get creative; youre supposed to remove the hood & cowl to replace it, but its actually possible to do it if youre careful
There is *just* enough room to reach in there and remove the clip to remove the arms:
So with that done, i moved it over in the garage, so id have room to work on the tailgate:
This unfortunately is not done. I ripped the whole gate back apart, check the window tracks & all the seals, greased the regulator, made sure everything is moving good, and even swapped the motor out for a different one, but its still struggling to roll the window up. Its like the old motors dont have the torque anymore to compress all those new seals. But, a new motor wont be here til wednesday/thursday, and this kinda works, so i closed the window and moved on to the next task.....
I made a little progress on the driver door today
Put the wing window in, window tracks & felts, regulator, window, and then realized the plastic gears in the motor were bad!
Fortunately, i had another regulator that i had already repaired, so i pulled the glass back out, swapped that regulator in, and put the glass back in. Dont ask why i didnt put that one in, because i dont know.
I did some upgrades to the wiring harness while the door was apart. Added one of these:
Its the one-touch module out of a Probe? or Taurus? Maybe Taurus. I dont remember anymore. I got a bunch of them out of the junkyard years ago and theyve just been sitting in a box til now.
So yeah, driver door harness all redone, with the module wired in and functional!
The harness is installed in the door and good to go, but this is about as far as i got. I still need to fix the speaker wires, and then i can finish up the kick panel & door panel. But, with tomorrow being New Years Eve, i dont anticipate working on it again this week. I have a new horn & wiper motor coming in the mail i think monday, so hopefully next week we'll button up these loose ends and get her outside!!
With the exhaust done, the next big project is to reassemble the doors!
In continuing with the no-chrome trend, i disassembled the door handles, dusted em, and then shot them with some satin black:
Looks pretty good against the grey paint:
The LMC doors were missing the two lower riv-nuts for the mirrors, so i had to add them (in case youre wondering, theyre 6mm)
These shells were an absolute pain to get aligned, but the end result looks good- it looks like a truck again!
I installed some old school rain guards, because i think they look better on these old trucks than the plastic ones. Black, of course:
I had sound deadener left over from putting the rear cargo panels in (in both broncos actually) so i put some in the doors. front to back, from the bottom up to the body line in the door. We'll see if it helps.
So next up, its time to go back into the box of seals!
i had ordered the Super Weatherstripping Kit from Bronco Graveyard (along with a bunch of other rubber seals & felts, etc) about a year ago, and ive been slowly working my way thru the pile. The next thing we need out of the pile, is for these:
In order to replace the seal, you need to remove the glass. Step one, remove these two little screws:
And then remove this nut from the bottom. Take note: there is a steel oval washer + a plastic washer inside the frame, and a second thicker plastic washer under the spring. Each piece gets installed in a specific location and oriented a certain way so make sure you pay attention when taking it apart
The bare frame after the seal is removed. Ive already cleaned it, and touched up the black paint:
I also took the opportunity to clean up the frame on the glass and touched up the paint on them too:
One window rebuilt! I didnt take pics of the seal install. Honestly, it sucks. A lot. It takes a decent amount of finesse, and i had to use some wd40 to lubricate the seal to get it to seat into the frame. The first one took me an hour to do, the second went way faster. If you dont get it installed properly, the window wont close properly, or the seal wont stay in place, etc. Youre gonna curse up a storm and swear it doesnt fit but it does, it just sucks that much to do.
With that done...lets build a door!
Dug out my door panel. This is gonna need to be cleaned up. Also, we cant have that chrome strip on there!
Chrome strip removed, door panel all cleaned up and looking way better:
I prepped the driver side door panel at the same time. Also got both chrome strips cleaned, sanded and painted satin black:
One set of window run channels, felt glass wipers, a bunch of them body panel clips and viola! Weve got a completed door!
Next up ive got to do this all over again for the driver door, but then the interior is done!
After that weve got to
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